Finding Serenity Amidst Chaos in Indonesia
We recently spent 12 days in Bali, Indonesia, where we split time between the mountain town of Ubud and the beachside town of Seminyak. Bali is a tropical paradise that has captured the hearts of many travelers around the world. With its landscapes, vibrant culture, and warm hospitality, Bali has become a popular destination for tourists seeking an exotic getaway. Ubud was a haven of relaxation, where we spent seven days lounging in cozy cafes, catching up on our travel planning, watching sunsets, and soaking up the local culture. On the other hand, Seminyak was a buzzing hive of activity, with beach clubs, surf schools, and lively nightlife. While both places had their own unique charm, we found that Ubud was a place to recharge and unwind, while Seminyak was an exciting and energetic destination more suited for those seeking adventure and nightlife. Our experience was a mix of relaxation, reflection, and some activity.
We started our Bali adventure with seven days in Ubud, a town known for its lush greenery, terraced rice paddies, and artistic charm. One of the things that stood out to us in Ubud was the warmth and friendliness of the locals. We were always greeted with a friendly smile and warm conversation. Everyone was always happy to chat and tell us about Bali.
One of our favorite interactions was meeting Desak, a lovely Balinese lady working on building her small business as a tailor. She was so kind and willing to turn our clothes around in a short amount of time at a very reasonable price. It was always a delightful experience connecting with the locals and learning about their customs and way of life.
One of the highlights of our time in Ubud was Nyepi Day, also known as the Balinese New Year and the Day of Silence. It's a unique cultural event where the entire island shuts down, and people stay indoors to reflect, meditate, and refrain from any activities. We were fortunate to witness the Nyepi Day parade in the center of Ubud, where the main intersection was transformed into a lively festival. The parade featured the Ogoh Ogoh, large paper-mâché statues that represent the evil spirits that the Balinese believe plague the world. It was a colorful and mesmerizing spectacle, with hundreds of locals marching and dancing alongside the Ogoh Ogoh. The performances were accompanied by traditional music and the sounds of the gamelan orchestra, making it a truly immersive experience. The parade culminated in the burning of the Ogoh Ogoh, symbolizing the purification of the evil spirits from the island. The next day, we embraced the stillness of Nyepi by staying at our hotel, enjoying the peace and tranquility that enveloped the island.
After our peaceful time in Ubud, we headed to Seminyak, where we spent the next five days exploring the town, trying out some incredible juice stands and smoothie bowls, and discovering our favorite restaurant in all of Bali. We loved it so much that we went back three days in a row, which is a rare occurrence for us! We also had a little 'Treat Ourselves' day where we got pedicures and went to the spa at our hotel for a 2.5 hour session that included a 30 minute foot massage, 90 minute hot stone massage, and 30 minute body wrap. It was the first hot stone massage either of us has ever had, and we absolutely loved it! Unfortunately, the weather was a bit of a disappointment, as it was very cloudy and/or rainy during our entire stay in Seminyak, so we did not have the chance to see some of the amazing sunsets the area is known for. Nevertheless, we still managed to enjoy ourselves and relax, especially during our spa day and exploring the local area.
One of the highlights of Seminyak was a surf lesson we took. We had a 2 hour private lesson with our instructor, Sam, who guided us each step of the way. Despite being beginners, both of us managed to get up on the surfboard and catch a few good waves. However, we’d be lying if we said we didn’t have a few wipeouts and tumbles! We couldn't help but let out a few victory whoops as we surfed back to shore, feeling accomplished and energized. The surf lesson was truly a highlight, and we hope to get another chance to surf so we can improve!
While we enjoyed our time in Bali, we also noticed some contrasting aspects that left us feeling conflicted. The first is that that Bali’s beaches are some of the most polluted beaches we have ever seen — it was pretty sad to see. The beaches were littered with plastic and other debris, and the water was murky with trash floating around everywhere. It was impossible to enter the water without being surrounded by trash and stepping on plastic. We asked a few locals if the water was always that polluted, and they said yes and also explained that the problem is exacerbated during the rainy season when the heavy rains wash garbage from rivers and streams into the ocean. According to an environmental group in Bali, around 90 tons of plastic waste travel down the island’s waterways and into the ocean each day. It's a complex issue that requires the cooperation and action of government, local communities, and tourists alike.
The second thing that left us feeling conflicted was that the island was overrun by tourists. We often felt that we were in a crowded tourist hub rather than an idyllic tropical oasis. And we recognize the irony in this comment because we, too, are tourists contributing to this problem. We believe, however, that the difference between what we observed in Bali and other places in SE Asia that were full of tourists was that the tourists in Bali were often disrespectful of the local customs. A few examples we observed during our short time there include: 1) The Nyepi Day celebrations had to be halted and delayed numerous times due to tourists obstructing the parade route trying to take photos; 2) Many tourists ride scooters in their bathing suits, which is illegal and has caused the government to propose new laws banning scooter usage by tourists; and 3) Tourists disrespecting the Nyepi Day ordinances and fighting with the Pecalang, Bali’s moral and social security force responsible for maintaining harmony and order in the community, including enforcing local customs and traditions, resolving disputes, and ensuring that religious and cultural ceremonies are conducted appropriately. Ultimately, these tourists were deported.
Reflecting on our time in Bali, we found ourselves grappling with mixed feelings. Anyone we have talked to that has ever visited has always had incredible things to say, and don’t get us wrong, we really enjoyed our time as well. We could definitely feel and understand why Bali is a special place with its relaxing vibe, kind-hearted locals, and culture we experienced. However, while we acknowledge the charm and allure, we also recognize it didn't quite meet our expectations. We just felt as though, unfortunately, Bali is in a tough position right now due to some negative effects of tourism, and we hope that tourism doesn’t destroy the beauty that has attracted many to the island so that future visitors can continue enjoying everything Bali has to offer. While Bali wasn’t our favorite destination, we will look back fondly on the memories we made.
